Exhaust wrap reduces radiant heat into the intake, wiring, and firewall. It also raises internal skin temperatures, so material choice and corrosion control matter - especially on mild-steel headers.

‹ 1 / 7 ›

✕ ‹

›

1 / 7

When Wrap Is Worth It#

• Heat-soaked engine bays
• Clutch lines or wiring near primaries
• Cabin heat from the tunnel
• Close hood clearance to painted surfaces

Materials#

• Fiberglass or basalt wrap with an adequate continuous temperature rating
• Stainless locking ties or soft stainless wire
• Optional high-temp coating over the finished wrap
• Gloves, eye protection, and a dust mask when cutting wrap

Preparation#

1. Repair exhaust leaks first. Wrap does not seal cracks.
2. Degrease the tubing.
3. On mild steel, consider high-temp paint under the wrap or accept faster rust.
4. Mask oxygen-sensor bungs, flex joints, and slip joints that must move.

Installation Technique#

1. Start at the flange with a clean tuck under the first turn.
2. Maintain even tension; overlap about one-quarter of the wrap width (or the manufacturer’s guidance).
3. Keep layers tight without choking flex sections.
4. Finish ends with stainless ties; trim fibers cleanly.
5. Optional: apply a high-temp coating to reduce fraying and oil wicking.

Caution

Wrapped primaries run hotter. Use fasteners, gaskets, and nearby hose materials rated for the extra heat. Inspect mild-steel headers for corrosion annually.

First Heat Cycle#

Expect some smoke and odor as binders burn off - do this outdoors. Retorque manifold flanges after the first full heat cycle. Confirm O2 sensors still switch; never bury a sensor tip under wrap.

Maintenance#

• Replace wrap that is oil-soaked (fire risk)
• Re-tie loose ends before they unravel into the belt path
• Recheck after off-road or track scrapes