pgmfi.org

This is the most informative, excellent information I have found. And has helped my understanding immensely. Thank, you. I am feeling far more confident about tuning my own vehicle once the build is done.

I'm glad to hear it has helped, because it has been a lot of work. Lots of people have helped me here and in other forums. Just think of all those that people like Dave Blundell, John Cui, and many other core guys from this site have helped. This is my attempt to give something back.

I replaced my OE CAT with a test pipe I got off egay. I can't believe how small of a hole all my exhaust has been going through. The test pipe is basically a 2.5" resonator with very little restriction. My turbo spools up quicker and makes more power with the change. I also noticed that I had to turn my boost controller DC down quite a bit to keep from overboosting. The system seems to be more efficient now, which is what I expected due to reduced pumping losses and back-pressure.

I also had to fix my idle, which has been getting higher and higher in the cold. Today after a short run it was not only not going down as the car warmed, but started bouncing up and down like crazy. I used this link http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread/1564019 to get an idea of how to check my FITV, which I had been meaning to inspect for a while now. I had a bouncy idle even in the summer at times before and thought to check it. The inside of the FITV was completely loose. I cleaned and reassembled it and the car idles great now - much lower and very smooth.

There are so many little things to tweak, tinker with and fix on a 13 year old performance car. Having great resources like this forum and others makes it so much easier.

Merry Christmas everyone!

Great thread ntc! This has been an immense help! Still checking in for more updates.

Great thread ever thanks alot man for tech tha you now thanks Help me soo much

As everyone else has said here... Great post! I can't pretend to understand a lot of the stuff you are talking about here, but I'm slowly starting to understand more and more. This is a really big help thanks a lot!

You're welcome. I'm glad it's helping someone. I haven't spent any time tuning my car for a while. I'm running 10PSI and having a lot of fun. I am starting to want more power again. Boost is addictive.

I added some new tires to the car recently - Falken Azenis RT-615. I like them a lot so far. They seem to get great grip in dry weather and rub much less than the other tires I had. They don't pull the car around on uneven surfaces near as much as my previous setup and look pretty cool, IMHO.

I need to lean my car out a bit. It's running pretty rich at WOT. I do have the detonation tuned out and it pulls hard, so with limited time I have been content to let 'er run with suboptimal fuel economy and WHP.

Future plans include swapping the OE MAP out for a GM 2BAR. I'm going to up the boost to 15 if all goes well. My engine is built, so it should handle the power. I think I might need a new FPR too. I'll let you know how it goes.

Wow you just answered every one of 1000 questions that I had, and I'm only halfway through reading. Thank you so much for putting all this together in one place! It must have been a ton of work, but it means a lot to people like me. Awesome thread.

Nice to hear that it's been a help.

I haven't done anything to the car for a while. I have a built motor that can handle a lot more boost than what I'm feeding it. I ordered a 3 BAR MAP and am anxiously waiting for it. I'm shooting for 15psi on pump gas and hope to have close to 300HP. I was going to use a 2 BAR, but figured it might be nice to have the option to increase the boost a little more with better fuel, methanol injection, water injection or something like that some day. I don't want to switch MAP sensors and have to retune just to go a few PSI over 15, so I bought a 3 BAR instead of using the 2 BAR I already have. I guess I will lose a little resolution on the MAP signal, but it sounds like a lot of guys are using them so I should be fine.

We'll see how my HP number come out. I figured out where I can take the car for some dyno time and would like to try that after I street tune it with the new MAP sensor.

I switched to Crome 1.5 and hope that it fixes an issue or two. I've been using an ancient version and decided to update to support TunerTee users. Unfortunately it looks like I'm going to have to retune my fuel maps - they're off enough to require a retune. I'm using my tried-and-true bin file from the old version of Crome until my new MAP gets here and then I'll spend the time to retune everything. I'll let you know how it goes. It might take a while with everything else that's going on.

Question for you. On page 2 you copy the p28 tables (304 bin) into a p30 for the added plugins available to a p30. You mention using a 208 bin. According to http://www.getglitched.com/pgmfiwiki/ww ... Codes.html
isn't 208 a EDM p28 bin? Did you mean 203, the JDM p30 bin? Also why not use the 305, the US DM p30 bin? Is there a conflict with the PA, ELD sensors etc. I've got a p28 chipped just like you did and am looking to put a stock bin on the chip just to make sure it's soldered right, but I'll also want to enable data logging. Also reading through the freelog forum, did I see somewhere that p28s can now support datalogging plugin?
Such a newb to all this stuff its hard to know where to start.

I did mean 203. I must have fat-fingered that. I'll go back and edit it.

I didn't look very hard at other options like the 305 because so many other tuners seemed to be using the 203. It comes up when you click "File->New" by default in Crome, so it was the easiest to try for me.

I'm not aware of QRTDLP support for P28 binaries, but you might read the thread you saw closer. I just tried adding the datalogging plugin using Crome 1.5 to a P28 bin (304) and it didn't work. Maybe there's another way to patch the bin? Let us know if you find something.

It sounds like you're figuring things out. Keep reading and then start experimenting as safely as you can. Plan things out, change as few variables as possible at one time, use your senses and brain and you should be okay. Have fun.

Every one must reat this post before starting tunning. I'm a noob and arround the internet i didn't found so much in only one post. Thank you for your pacience collecting and studing all of this information. This post should be a book or a pdf because so many people have questions that their are answered in this post. Thank you for this post

this will definitely get me started, thanks for taking your time to make this write up. Didn't get a chance to finish reading everything but I will continue where I left off later.

I would say when using CROME, only load any other .bin files to export the tables and look at default settings (revlimit, etc)... and just use the "New" ROM command; I know if this is done, then you won't have any issues with plugins.

Only reason why you would need to use another ROM that is not in the list, is if your running an Automatic ECU.... for some reason, changing the jumpers on the ECU or not, it will not want to run an automatic ROM on a manual ECU/car.... CEL will hit right away (AT/Lockup CEL)... I know you can jumper the RP jumpers to make the Auto ROM act like a manual in an auto ECU, but for some reason, beyond me, those RP jumpers do nothing for an External ROM.

Dear NTC490, I am astounded!!!.......and completely baffled. Seriously, I read your whole thread and don't understand one tenth of what you wrote. I don't know anything about "configuring" in this context, what datalogging or freeloging is, and the only chrome I know about is the stuff on my hub caps. I am assuming that you are talking to other electronics experts; certainly not myself or any other race car builder I have known in my 62 years.
Is all this really necessary to learn in order to tune my Honda lump? I was under the impression that all I need to do is get a tuning CD for my lap top and plug it into my ECU with a 3-way adapter lead and follow the instructions on the CD. I could do that. What is all this complicated brain surgery all about; and, all the other gagets; don't they come with the CD? It looks like I would have to go back to college and get degrees in computer science and electronics If I want to change my ECU maps!
Please tell me it's not true.