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Howsit from Tauranga New Zealand.

Just playing with RTP and a JDM P30 ECU running a B18CR.
Got idle issues sorted but need to take around 5% out of the IACV duty cycle to stop the hunting idle.
New Crome has this feature but doesn't like the free dataloggers out there like the old 1.2.5 was compatible with.

Anyone with a wideband kit in Tga happy to help out or lend me it for road tuning my car?

Post your power or achievements up that you have obtained using chipped ECU's

Hi, I have been playing a bit with chipping my own ECU. I have not seen too many people doing it in NZ, and was wondering how you got on? I am in Hamilton.

Still wating to get road tuned then dyno, got all my real time tuning and datalogging working fine.
OBD1 P30 ECU chipped and converted ECU to manual.

What ECU have you chipped?

I have the older OBD0 PW0 ECU in an EF8 CRX.

It got a B20 conversion not too long ago, and I went to the dyno shop and we tuned it with BRE and an ostrich. Did not bother trying to tune on the road, figured we could spend days on the road doing what you can do in an hour on the dyno (and motor has fairly high compression, so need to be able to pick up detonation before any damage is done)

B20 in CRX chassis =

Grevis

Yep thats why you can dyno tune then road tune.

Most dyno's in N.Z will never get you fully tuned for daily driving (which i'm sure you don't do in your car)

Dyno tuning only tunes the full throttle parts of the map, what about everywhere else in between, including engine coolant temp and air intake temp offsets.

There is MUCH more to it, but dyno tune gets you 85-95% good most of the time.

Hi Coupe-r,

Actually the dyno tune took about 4-5 hours and most of that was tuning all the partial throttle settings. The dyno can hold the engine speed at a constant setting while you hold the throttle at various amounts and get the mixtures right. We did not do much tuning for partial load in the high part of the rev range though.

Adjusting for different intake and water temp would be pretty tricky, so I just hope that the factory adjustments are enough.

Grevis

ah that means you had a good dyno then
remember the dyno is never the same as the road

And IAT and ECT temps can affect the AFR a SHITLOAD, so i would datalog those next time you are driving and check them. You would need a wideband 02 sensor tho

Over my christmas break I am going to try and make a cold air box and put a heatshield on the intake pipe to try and make that part more stable. If I park the car after the motor has been working hard the under bonnet temps must get pretty high.

Interestingly, I read an article in a Honda magazine yesterday where the same engine was taken from on engine dyno, then put in a car and placed on a chassis dyno. With drivetrain, powersteering and aircon pump added it lost 14%. Its the first test I've seen of that type.

Thats not suprising tho eh!



yep probably about 50-60C easily

and driving slowly in summer temps can reach 40C (The ecu will be leaning out the mixture to compensate, however it can lean out too much)

Andrew will be needing your services soon for datalogging and ostrich tuning with BRE